Suburban Crawl #5: Visiting the Specialist

A cross-town visit to some specialists in Filipino pork in Sunshine North and Indonesian Rendang in Camberwell

I’m a little behind on my goal of a weekly post, but I’ve got a two-fer this week to make up for lost ground. In this issue of Suburban Crawl, we’re seeking specialists – As they say, “Do one thing and do it well.”

As always, every featured restaurant is collected on the Suburban Crawl Map.

Cebu Charcoal Lechon Belly, Sunshine North

Once again, I’ve found myself in the western suburbs. I’ve travelled far seeking a Filipino national dish at Cebu Charcoal Lechon Belly. And when I say specialist, I mean it; there’s not much in the bain-marie that doesn’t feature the pork. They’re famous for a slow charcoal roasting pork belly in a great tube encased in crispy skin. You can buy it in 200g increments or buy a whole 4kg pork belly to take home with you.

When it comes to cooking lechon, it’s sprinkled with salt and spices (which change regionally) on it, and give it a good basting (sometimes done using a soft drink). Then, it's all about roasting the pig on a bamboo spit over charcoal for hours. There are no fancy frills here, just straightforward cooking. And when it's done, that pork skin? It's crispy as can be. That's what makes this dish stand out, plain and simple.

I ordered the spicy version of the lechon in the lunch value pack, with a side order of the shrivelled vegetables (okra, eggplant, tomato, and pork). The pork is served with fluffy white rice and a sharp vinegar sauce to dress the pork and cut through the fat of the pork belly. I had The shrivelled vegetables over the rice, cooked in a fish sauce. It was the stand-out over the charcoal pork for me which lacked the diversity I long for in a bite.

Only a petite Filipino lady was working the counter when I stopped for lunch. She was so deft with the cleaver – it was an absolute marvel. The walls are adorned with fairy lights and golden statues; the one with the pineapple was my favourite. And, of course, Filipino superstar Bruno Mars’s greatest hits playlist was bumping on the restaurant speakers.

Filipino food is something that I’m still getting to know. It is often heavy on mouthy, fatty textures and a blend of sweet and soy-saltiness. Perhaps a product of the influence in the region from the Chinese, Spanish and Americans. Lechon itself is a staple of many Spanish-speaking countries across the world. In the Philippines, Lechon is the national dish traditionally prepared for special occasions. What’s interesting in the entomology of this is that lechon is a pre-Hispanic dish since pigs are one of the native domesticated animals of the region. It went by all kinds of names depending on the region, like “Inasal”, until Lechon became a loanword from Spanish to refer to roasted pigs.

As I wrapped up my meal at Cebu Charcoal Lechon Belly to the sweet sounds of Bruno Mars, I couldn't help but appreciate the diverse influences of Filipino cuisine and the Filipino people. Each dish, like the crispy lechon and the savoury shrivelled vegetables, tells a unique story shaped by cultural influences and history. There has been a steadily increasing amount of Filipino restaurants in Melbourne recently, like Serai and Barkada Pinoy, in the city. This can only be a good thing. So, if you ever find yourself in Sunshine North, see what Cebu is about.

Dale La Pau - The Rendang Specialist, Camberwell

Sometimes, you eat something spicy, and the heat takes you on a transcendent journey; often, if you’re with someone, it brings your conversation and the air of surrealness accompanying a fever dream. Of course, this is the premise behind Hot Ones on YouTube.

Today, I picked up my friend Derry and went for lunch. I had intended to take him to a place in Hawthorne, which was mysteriously shut when we arrived, so we headed down the road to Dale La Pau - The Rendang Specialist. You know, when a place has “Specialist” in the name, they’re not fucking around.

We sat down and ordered the lunch special of Nasi Ramas (Mixed Minang Rice). All the Nasi Ramams come with Goreng Terong Teri Balado (Fried Eggplant, Anchovies, Green Chili), Sayur Kapau (Mixed Vegetable Curry), Sambalado (Red Chili) and steamed rice (Topped with Sayur Gravu, Fried Shallots, and Roasted Coconut).  

Then you can choose your two rendang adjacent selections to go with it. There’s your classic beef, but then you can get creamy beef (kalio sapi), fatty beef (gajeboh), beef foot (Tunjang) or even beef lung (paru). Outside the beef realm, they have chicken, prawn, eel, and a few vegan options (luckily for Derry, as a vegetarian).

I ended up picking the classic beef rendang and the fatty beef. The rendang is in the style of the Minangkabau of West Sumatra. Some consider it the home of rendang. Its style is darker and less saucy than many rendangs I’ve had, but the meat melts in your mouth.

The plates came out as we chatted. Soon, the heat started to set in. I could feel it in my chest. Indonesian spice can sometimes feel like a flat blanket of heat. Covering you. Over conversation followed the ebbs and flows of the heat. We talked about films we’d seen at MIFF; we loved the new Wim Wenders film Perfect Days, which encapsulates the simple life. We discussed film ideas and the writing process, where ideas come from. Perhaps it was that perfect combination of good company and good food, but I felt energised by the lunch. My chest tingled from the reverberations of the sambal. Hot Ones has a winning formula for a reason. 

This is probably my 3rd or 4th visit to the Rendang Specialist (Doctor’s orders). I came across it by accident while driving through Camberwell Junction. Inadvertently, I parked in front of the store; I stopped the car and went in for lunch. The staff are always incredibly kind and have recommended things I might not have considered before. I’ve tried various things, such as the catfish and the beef lung; it was crispy and nothing like how I imagined its namesake. I’m always enamoured by any venue actively using and serving more of the animals we eat. Especially when it’s served with this rich heat behind it that I love, I will continue to sing Dale La Pau’s praises to friends and anyone who will listen.